Silk Damask, circa 1845

I rarely make pieces without a certain event to wear it to in mind, but when I saw this fabric at work - a crisp silk damask probably intended for use in a high quality lining - it reminded me so strongly of the 1840s that I had to make an exception.

This dress is entirely hand sewn, made from silk damask lined with cotton, sewn with silk and cotton thread. It took me about two weeks, and most of that was honestly in wrangling the bias decoration on the skirt.  The pattern is based on Period Costumes for Stage and Screen, which worked wonderfully and with few alterations, except for the reeeally long, wide sleeves.  I wish that I'd done the gathering before I assembled the bodice, as it definitely would have helped it look neater- that being said, for not having any instructions outside of Janet Arnold, I think it turned out alright.  I just wish that I could have fit the back a bit better and evened out the hem at the front.  Next time I wear this I'll add some lace at the collar and, if needed, make a pelerine from the leftover fabric!

I decided on a simple style to let the fabric speak for itself - a standard gathered fan-front and a large bias strip on the skirt, which was a pretty common period decoration.  Next time I wear this I'll add matching bias strips to the ends of the sleeves as well.

I wish I was able to show you pictures of me wearing this on the beautiful North Shore, but unfortunately it was raining pretty hard by the time I left for dance.  But my dog stood in as a prop for added visual interest.

Hopefully I'll be able to take, and post, more pictures (including detail shots) this week!

A Shoemaking Experiment

A year or two ago, I would not have had the confidence, or even the desire, to make my own period shoes.  But I have been inspired by the hugely talented shoemakers in the hobby to give the trade a try, especially since Robert Land, the shoemaker who constructed the 19th century boots that I always lusted after, has recently closed up shop.

I based my shoes on several extant pairs from the Met.  I knew I wanted fabric uppers with no toe foxing, so I used red wool gaberdine lined with stiff cotton canvas.  The heel foxing is kid leather, the sole is 10 oz sole/saddle leather from ebay.  I did not use entirely period-correct construction techniques, partially out of laziness and partially because I didn't want to put the work into something that I knew would not turn out particularly stellar.  I used Every Woman Her Own Shoe-Maker as a guide, but my primary instructional source was from The Graceful Lady.  Without her step-by-step instructions I would have been completely and utterly lost, especially when it came to treating the soles!

So here is my first, modest attempt at making shoes.  If nothing else, it's a nice pair to wear at an event when it's muddy and I don't want to ruin my good leather boots.  I have a lot of ideas for how I can improve my next pair, which I intend to be a pair of light pink satin dancing slippers.

 As you can see, the soles need a better dye than I gave them!

The most difficult part of the process was obtaining an appropriately sized straight last, which I found on ebay after some digging.   Also, putting the holes in the sole with an improperly sized awl (thank goodness I found a narrower one.)

Anyways, I'd recommend this shoe as a nice pet project for anyone with some time on their hands (90% of these were constructed on the train to work) and very strong wrists.

A lawn cap

Hello!  I am still here and still sewing, although the rest of my life is eating away at my sewing time.  

I've needed something to do with my hands on the way to work, so I've been working on little things, including this muslin cap made from B&T's muslin.   I have learned so much about sewing in the past year and none of my caps reflect that, so it was about time I whipped up another.

My stitching has improved a little.

Please excuse the messy humidity hair.

A clue about what I'm currently working on:  In my lap right now I'm cradling a large, surprisingly heavy antique wood last.  Somebody in the mid-19th century must have worn size 10, and that makes me feel a little better about myself.

Douglas Day 3: Douglas Harder

As you all know, I'm especially sentimentally attached to the late Senator Stephen Douglas.  Today, on the anniversary of his death, the SAD Association (of which I am now honorarily a part) held a wreath laying at his tomb in Bronzeville.  It's a beautiful park by the freeway, a few hundred meters from the lake, beautifully kept up and, of course, historically significant.

I thought that today would be as good as any to take my long-suffering friend to yet another (that's 3 so far!) Douglas-related event.

I present, Douglas day 3, which features a lot more official networking than the first two.

Awkward selfie? Awkward selfie.

 I wore the blue skirt from my ballgown over my white organdy graduation gown (which still miraculously fits!)  In addition, I made a pretty simple swiss waist; black silk taffeta with box pleated trim and a band of narrow velvet.  Unfortunately my bonnet ties are obscuring it but I was really pleased with how it turned out.
It was loosely based on this original from The Clothing Project on tumblr:

I altered my bodice pattern, shortening it and creating two deep points.  I wish I had taken the time to consolidate both bust darts into one princess seam like the original, and also wish that I could have added straps (I gave up halfway through pleating the trim for one.)

 I had my shawl and parasol and C had her chantilly lace shawl, so we made a very fine pair!  The SAD association president told us that we looked like we belonged in an impressionistic painting.

So here is to the memory of the late Senator Douglas.  I hope his past will help advance my future!

An early 1870s gown

Or - An Unstoppable Force meets an Undoable Project

A few weeks ago a good friend of mine from outside the historical costuming community commissioned me to make a ruffly 1870s gown, and since I anticipated having a lot of free time over the summer, I agreed.  The only problem was that she lives halfway across the country and I have never sewn for anybody else in my life!

I'm not usually very fond of lots of trim and flounces but I found myself very taken with the ruffles (which almost compensates for how little I enjoyed sewing them on) and found an easier way to put them on.  One edge of each ruffle is selvage, the other is bound, the binding fabric folded down and encased between the two running stitches.  It's a few less steps than hemming one side, binding, sewing down the binding, gathering and applying.  I used some modern methods in the construction of this garment to expedite the process, as exact historical accuracy was not a huge concern.

Since the dress isn't made for me, it doesn't fit me correctly.  I just wanted to give a general idea of how it looks.

Here's my best Toulmouche impression!

I used Janet Arnold's 1870 pattern as a base and various different original garments for style inspiration.  The silk fabric is from Renaissance Fabric (I'm definitely getting myself some!) and the lining is quilter's cotton from Hancock's.  The whole garment took about a month, working off and on.

I sent the wearer a bodice mockup and made adjustments, and I hope I didn't over-compensate.  I also wish that I had shortened the sleeve caps a little, because they are a little awkward-sitting.  I also wish that I'd stiffened the hem of the underskirt like the original pattern prescribes, because at the moment it gets a little deflated (keep in mind, I'm not wearing any petticoats for these pictures.)  Since this dress was for someone else I didn't want to cut too many corners, though, so I'm really quite pleased with the extent to which everything was finished and neatly put together.  Through my tumblr sewing blog I was also able to give day-by-day updates of the dress being built, which was a lot of fun and, I think, helped the process by confirming that I was actually working on the garment!  We sent a lot of messages to each other regarding how we wanted the finished product to go together.

I hope you all have a lovely summer!  I have some fun projects coming down the pike that I can't wait to share with you all.

Update:  On the recipient!

All credit to L.R.

A quick new (old) bonnet

Sorry for the complete silence over here!  I've been working on a lot of small projects for both work and play and haven't had any time or energy to post them.

Here's my silly SADD project - I uncovered, recovered and decorated what once was a pink dupioni drawn bonnet and turned it into something a little more befitting its high fashion shape.  I used a bit of silk remnant, some pieces of antique lace I thought I'd never find a use for, and the silk ribbons I made to put on my not-entirely-1860-appropriate straw bonnet form.  The result is a delightfully silly piece of high-fashion headwear that I can't want to wear to Douglas Day v. 3!

Please excuse my nasty cold/allergy face

And of course I forgot to take out the basting stitches.... psssht

If you have any questions about the bonnet, please ask away!

In the interim, I'm working on constructing a big 1870s gown with all the trimmings and ruffles for a friend, and after that, who knows what I'll be doing?

Probably a lot of muslin caps, if we're being honest.

(I did get a summer job at Vogue, though.  30% employee discount.)

Hope all my readers are having a lovely (warm) summer!

The performance gown (of inappropriate shift-flashing)

One of the lovely women who attends our school's English Country Dance club was organizing a JASNA meeting focused on the musical aspects of Jane Austen's works, and she graciously allowed me to play a few period harp pieces for it along with the rest of the presenters and performers.

The problem being that my only good early 19th century dress, my yellow and green print, was in a storage unit in the northern suburbs of Chicago.  It was time for a new dress!  So I cannibalized a yellow wool petticoat to make a dress that really needs some structural changes before I wear it again.  But the music, dancing and lovely company at the event made up for my sartorial mistakes!

I used this gown as inspiration for the construction - I liked the gathered detailing on the bib, and I wish that I had had more time to do similar sleeve and hem decoration.  The pattern is loosely adapted from Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion - it went together very smoothly and is pretty adjustable.

I had a couple weeks to get it done, but I procrastinated and ended up making it in a few days. It is tropical weight wool lined partially with linen, sewn with silk and linen thread.  I need to re-make the skirt and possibly the sleeves, but the dress was comfortable and sturdy and I liked the color.

Photo credit to Emma C - I take full responsibility for my phone camera being terrible

 

Here's a better picture of my hair pre-preformance, when the curls were still fresh.

I do not know what personal projects I'll be doing in the near future.  But Douglas Day is definitely going to happen this summer - I'm hugely excited about that - as well as various and sundry other Civil War events that I'd like to get out to.

I hope you all have a lovely spring!