Tuesday, August 20, 2013

How to size up a pattern using photoshop

Because I had a lot of trouble figuring out how to do this.  And drawing it out by hand can be a drag with all of those squares and boxes and arbitrary lines, especially if one pattern piece is smaller and very complicated as to curves and darts.  So without further ado, here's a poorly explained tutorial about sizing up little patterns to scale!

Friday, August 16, 2013

Douglas Day, version 2

Don't worry, friends, I am still alive! And sewing!  I've mostly been working on my new CW camp dress made of wonderfully garish print, but I want that to be a surprise for when it's finished. c:  I've just been mending and retrimming my old stuff.
But I did take advantage of the last halcyon days of summer and youth to drag friends out to the Douglas tomb (right in our town) and have a picnic and roll around and whatnot.  It was a chiefly amusing day!
As if you all didn't think that I was Douglas crazy enough.
 The artifice itself is actually Douglas' tomb.  It was started in '61 and finished around 1888 (due to cost difficulties.)  It stood on the land where he had intended to build his grand Chicago estate, Oakenwald.  Never did get around to it (thanks to typhoid and a history of alcoholism....)

It has all sorts of cool reliefs carved around it depicting scenes relevant to the early American experience!
I left a few flowers in front of his tomb.
                                               We also had a lot of fun with the statues!


Our very pc picnic bench
 We set up in the lovely park around the memorial itself and ate little cookies and cucumber sandwiches and drank lots of bubbly!
 The caretakers came up to us and complemented us on our outfits.  Apparently they have period events around there and once or twice a year they have a Douglas reenactor!  And I've been missing out on 7 whole years of going to see a punk rock' Stephen Dougas! But they promised to contact me and send me info and were generally very kind.
 Anne came, as well!  It was awfully nice to see her.
I never got around to showing off the finished bonnet I was making for C for APortfolio, so here it is, beautifully modeled by the owner herself.
 And we got a little jumpy by the end of the day, and what better way to honor an energetic woman-loving man than by flashing our drawers all about?  (and nobody told me my hair was falling out! :c )

It only goes to show: if there aren't any events around, make one yourself!!!

Thursday, August 8, 2013

Julia Tyler in Night Vale


I suppose my interest in accurate sewing has reached a point where if something was made before 1855 or so I feel the deep, burning need to sew it by hand.  Remind me never to do that for a ballgown again, though.
So last year on a spring break college tour I found a fabric store in Providence, RI, and I found some 60" silk duchess satin for $10 a yard, so I snatched up the last of the bolt because it screamed '1840s' to me.  And now I have finally done something with it!  Hurrah for stash taming!
tumblr.com
metmuseum.org
 I used several different inspiration pictures.  I meant for this dress to be exceedingly spartan, but I ended up with lots of lace and ribbons and a bertha.

Yaaaay summertime in Chicago!
"I swear, even though Senator Douglas was only THIS tall, he was still cute as a button!"



The back didn't fit me so well, and the whole thing could stand to be taken in an inch or so and it doesn't make my waist look very small at all (oh well.)  Despite that, I feel really rad in it!  The light really makes it shimmer and glow.


Obligatory harp picture
My preeeeciousssss
This was the dress of many design flaws... It was originally supposed to have intricate pleating at the front but I wussed out and made it up as a plain bodice.  I should have made a center front seam so I could have boned the point and taken care of some of the front wrinkles.  The armscythe fits really strangely, but the bertha covers it up wonderfully!  Also, one side of the skirt is fuller than the other because I tied off my gathering stitch too quickly.  My bad..

 
 The skirt was cartridge pleated and both the neck and waist piped (I tried to doble pipe the waist and failed amusingly)
Boning in the dart

 The bertha was only attached at the shoulders and pinned to the center front for easy future removal.
The bertha was made by stitching bias strips to a plain cotton base.

(About the name - I did most of the work on this dress while listening to Welcome to Night Vale, a really weird and excellent podcast.  Go listen!  All hail the glow cloud!)

Sunday, August 4, 2013

A quick poll

(Which will probably be deleted in several days time, but I have a desperate need for opinions!)
So at the moment my 1840s bodice looks like this, but without the sleeves:
From Antiquedress.com
 What initially drew me to this style of dress was the brutal simplicity of the style that let the fabric quality shine; no silly doodads or lacey bits, just immaculate fit and quality fabric.
But I still have at least a yard of fabric left after making up the skirt, and I'm starting to think that I might like to put a pleated bertha on as well.
 
Something like this
Do you like it plain better? Or with a low bertha (like the one in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion?)  I don't think a detachable one will work, as in the 40s it would have been sewn into the sleeve seam.
Thanks!



Saturday, July 27, 2013

A wool adventure

Ever since the Athenaeum I've been suffering from sewing burnout.  I just haven't wanted to do anything except sit and watch Supernatural and feel mopey about not being in 1860.
But no more - I've found a cure!  FABRIC SHOPPING!
I left intending to buy lining for my 1840s ballgown and came back with that, and some really lovely wavy repro 1860s cotton print for a new camp dress.  I can't start it, however, until I finish what I already have on my plate, so I buckled down, put on John Adams and worked until midnight finishing this baby.

And, like most of mine, it's waaaay too long.
My wool/silk blend middle class dress!  And I still need a collar for it (the one I planned on using was too short.)
Yeah, pay no mind to the hem malfunction...

It's just my usual darted bodice base with sleeves filched off of one of Elizabeth's Simplicity patterns.  I didn't have instructions or anything, so I just... wung it?  Winged it?  Whatever.  It hangs a bit strangely, but I think that the pleats are a great addition.

 I intend to put some sort of gimp or velvet decoration, but I haven't decided yet.  If anybody has an idea of what I should use don't hesitate to say!


And now, the deet shots...


 My first time sewing the closure so that the eyes were encased in the bodice itself, which made things a heck of a lot nearer looking because it eliminated awko gaps.
 The dress itself is a mixture of hand and machine sewing, and all the finishing is done by hand.  It's lined with a thick-weave white cotton, except for the sleeves, which are unlined.
One of the kind ladies at the Sewing Academy told me that it didn't matter how it looked on the inside so long as it looks nice on the outside...  Well, here's that in action!


Coming soon (ish)!


Sunday, July 14, 2013

A Week in the Confederacy


 Warning: here be a picture-heavy post!

Spending a week in the Athenaeum Rectory Girl's school was actually a pretty wonderful experience for me.  Other than a few instances which I'll brush on later it was a week of fun, art and new friends, as well as heat and mosquitoes.  But the last two can hardly be helped!
 We drove into Nashville the day before and stayed at a lovely bed and breakfast with a very amusing bathtub (amusing to C, at least, who thought that the shower nozzle was a phone at first!)  That's where we got our first taste of the distinctly Southern brand of congeniality which I felt so much of during the trip.  The proprietor just cared so much about our comfort..
The next day we made our way to Columbia.  We had to get there early so mama could catch her plane back to Chi-town, so we had quite a lot of time to kill while in costume.
(We also got in trouble for going off campus to get cheese sandwiches.  In our defense, they told us it was alright to go on a walk, but they didn't mention not to leave the yard...)
At the back porch! Ignore my petticoat, darp.

 The house was an absolutely darling 1830s mansion filled with lovely, original artifacts.

 Our host family was as new to all of this as we were, and being that they just moved in, gave us the use of several of their huge rooms to occupy.  And of course, we made quite a mess of them.
And this at the beginning of the week, too!

It was usually between 80 and 90 degrees, though the building was air conditioned, so I got a good deal of use from my sheer.  Even though it did get its fair amount of tears and stains, sigh.
Carriage rides!

Dem ankles!
 We had four or five classes per day, such as needlework, crochet (which I learned that I'm terrible at,) singing, art, penmanship, etiquette and domestic work.

Kate's dress... I can't even... /jaw drops/
Sara being a cutie, per usual
Look at all of my neat little 'e's, hah!
On one of the days we took a brief tour of the cemetery plots where the original family was interred, though it was too hot to stay for very long.


But for most of our free time we hung out in the double parlor and goofed around and sang Disney songs and sewed - the hours spent there were the most enjoyable of the trip for me.
Archangel et Jocelyn's peace sign
Church - the best place to goof off.
Speaking of church, we went to church service every single day.  For me as an agnostic that was pretty unusual, but by the end of the week I'd memorized the Te Deum and the Lord's Prayer and knew when to stand up and sit down and kneel on the little pillow or read out of our rad 1860s repro bible.  It was quite a cultural experience!
Graces in the yard
During the tea
On the last day, before graduation, we visited Rippavilla, a gorgeous antebellum plantation.  And just as if they knew my heart better than I knew my own, they brought us there to see an antique show.  SO much love.
I didn't have too much time to take pictures... :c
And then graduation and commencement, which were both wonderful despite my dress being exceedingly low cut (wearing a different corset than I drafted it over, erp.)  My harp piece went off without a hitch and nobody tripped over the church stairs off of the dias.
The lovely Ms. Flautt!
Yeah, Janet Jackson moment waiting to happen on my part.
Broooooos!
 And all the menfolk were attentive. And kind.  And tall.  And I would have climbed them like a tree had I the chance.  No lie.

As for the political part, it played a seemingly minor role.  Mr. Orman's class on 'current events' was mostly factual with a few amusing gems like 'the North was settled by English puritans who didn't like to have any fun, the South was settled by brave nat'listic Scots-Irish Braveheart people.'  But when the etiquette teacher read an excerpt from the Diary of Virginia Clay I nearly cracked a tooth grinding them so hard.  It was an excerpt regarding James Hammond's plantation, which I HAVE read factual records of and it is NOT a little slaveocratic heaven like it was portrayed as.  But in the part that she read Clay talks about how the happy little negro savages live in their happy little negro homes with their honky-tonk little negro culture, isn't it so cute! what would those savages do without us white people?
I mean, read any excerpt you want about life, art and culture in the 1860s.  But read a section so drenched in racism and upholding that to be right, to demonstrate that slavery was a positive good(?!?) and I won't be able to take you seriously.  At all.

But that was really the only problem that I had.  I didn't much mind being walked around the ballroom by handsome, attentive men, if only because it was a change from the usual grunts back home.  So there's that.
All in all, I'd do it again.  I made a lot of new friends, and I feel like I'm in a little sisterhood of belles, and like Andrew Jackson I'm a huge sucker for secretive societies.  All in all, a lovely time for a northerner down South!