Because I had a lot of trouble figuring out how to do this. And drawing it out by hand can be a drag with all of those squares and boxes and arbitrary lines, especially if one pattern piece is smaller and very complicated as to curves and darts. So without further ado, here's a poorly explained tutorial about sizing up little patterns to scale!
Tuesday, August 20, 2013
Friday, August 16, 2013
Douglas Day, version 2
Don't worry, friends, I am still alive! And sewing! I've mostly been working on my new CW camp dress made of wonderfully garish print, but I want that to be a surprise for when it's finished. c: I've just been mending and retrimming my old stuff.
But I did take advantage of the last halcyon days of summer and youth to drag friends out to the Douglas tomb (right in our town) and have a picnic and roll around and whatnot. It was a chiefly amusing day!
As if you all didn't think that I was Douglas crazy enough.
The artifice itself is actually Douglas' tomb. It was started in '61 and finished around 1888 (due to cost difficulties.) It stood on the land where he had intended to build his grand Chicago estate, Oakenwald. Never did get around to it (thanks to typhoid and a history of alcoholism....)
We set up in the lovely park around the memorial itself and ate little cookies and cucumber sandwiches and drank lots of bubbly!
The caretakers came up to us and complemented us on our outfits. Apparently they have period events around there and once or twice a year they have a Douglas reenactor! And I've been missing out on 7 whole years of going to see a punk rock' Stephen Dougas! But they promised to contact me and send me info and were generally very kind.
Anne came, as well! It was awfully nice to see her.
But I did take advantage of the last halcyon days of summer and youth to drag friends out to the Douglas tomb (right in our town) and have a picnic and roll around and whatnot. It was a chiefly amusing day!
As if you all didn't think that I was Douglas crazy enough.
The artifice itself is actually Douglas' tomb. It was started in '61 and finished around 1888 (due to cost difficulties.) It stood on the land where he had intended to build his grand Chicago estate, Oakenwald. Never did get around to it (thanks to typhoid and a history of alcoholism....)
It has all sorts of cool reliefs carved around it depicting scenes relevant to the early American experience!
I left a few flowers in front of his tomb.
We also had a lot of fun with the statues!| Our very pc picnic bench |
The caretakers came up to us and complemented us on our outfits. Apparently they have period events around there and once or twice a year they have a Douglas reenactor! And I've been missing out on 7 whole years of going to see a punk rock' Stephen Dougas! But they promised to contact me and send me info and were generally very kind.
Anne came, as well! It was awfully nice to see her.
I never got around to showing off the finished bonnet I was making for C for APortfolio, so here it is, beautifully modeled by the owner herself.
And we got a little jumpy by the end of the day, and what better way to honor an energetic woman-loving man than by flashing our drawers all about? (and nobody told me my hair was falling out! :c )
It only goes to show: if there aren't any events around, make one yourself!!!
Thursday, August 8, 2013
Julia Tyler in Night Vale
So last year on a spring break college tour I found a fabric store in Providence, RI, and I found some 60" silk duchess satin for $10 a yard, so I snatched up the last of the bolt because it screamed '1840s' to me. And now I have finally done something with it! Hurrah for stash taming!
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| tumblr.com |
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| metmuseum.org |
| Yaaaay summertime in Chicago! |
| "I swear, even though Senator Douglas was only THIS tall, he was still cute as a button!" |
| Obligatory harp picture |
| My preeeeciousssss |
| Boning in the dart |
The bertha was only attached at the shoulders and pinned to the center front for easy future removal.
The bertha was made by stitching bias strips to a plain cotton base.
(About the name - I did most of the work on this dress while listening to Welcome to Night Vale, a really weird and excellent podcast. Go listen! All hail the glow cloud!)
Sunday, August 4, 2013
A quick poll
(Which will probably be deleted in several days time, but I have a desperate need for opinions!)
So at the moment my 1840s bodice looks like this, but without the sleeves:
What initially drew me to this style of dress was the brutal simplicity of the style that let the fabric quality shine; no silly doodads or lacey bits, just immaculate fit and quality fabric.
But I still have at least a yard of fabric left after making up the skirt, and I'm starting to think that I might like to put a pleated bertha on as well.
Do you like it plain better? Or with a low bertha (like the one in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion?) I don't think a detachable one will work, as in the 40s it would have been sewn into the sleeve seam.
Thanks!
So at the moment my 1840s bodice looks like this, but without the sleeves:
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| From Antiquedress.com |
But I still have at least a yard of fabric left after making up the skirt, and I'm starting to think that I might like to put a pleated bertha on as well.
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| Something like this |
Thanks!
Saturday, July 27, 2013
A wool adventure
Ever since the Athenaeum I've been suffering from sewing burnout. I just haven't wanted to do anything except sit and watch Supernatural and feel mopey about not being in 1860.
But no more - I've found a cure! FABRIC SHOPPING!
I left intending to buy lining for my 1840s ballgown and came back with that, and some really lovely wavy repro 1860s cotton print for a new camp dress. I can't start it, however, until I finish what I already have on my plate, so I buckled down, put on John Adams and worked until midnight finishing this baby.
| And, like most of mine, it's waaaay too long. |
| Yeah, pay no mind to the hem malfunction... |
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It's just my usual darted bodice base with sleeves filched off of one of Elizabeth's Simplicity patterns. I didn't have instructions or anything, so I just... wung it? Winged it? Whatever. It hangs a bit strangely, but I think that the pleats are a great addition.
I intend to put some sort of gimp or velvet decoration, but I haven't decided yet. If anybody has an idea of what I should use don't hesitate to say!
And now, the deet shots...
My first time sewing the closure so that the eyes were encased in the bodice itself, which made things a heck of a lot nearer looking because it eliminated awko gaps.
The dress itself is a mixture of hand and machine sewing, and all the finishing is done by hand. It's lined with a thick-weave white cotton, except for the sleeves, which are unlined.
One of the kind ladies at the Sewing Academy told me that it didn't matter how it looked on the inside so long as it looks nice on the outside... Well, here's that in action!
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| Coming soon (ish)! |
Sunday, July 14, 2013
A Week in the Confederacy
We drove into Nashville the day before and stayed at a lovely bed and breakfast with a very amusing bathtub (amusing to C, at least, who thought that the shower nozzle was a phone at first!) That's where we got our first taste of the distinctly Southern brand of congeniality which I felt so much of during the trip. The proprietor just cared so much about our comfort..
The next day we made our way to Columbia. We had to get there early so mama could catch her plane back to Chi-town, so we had quite a lot of time to kill while in costume.
(We also got in trouble for going off campus to get cheese sandwiches. In our defense, they told us it was alright to go on a walk, but they didn't mention not to leave the yard...)
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| At the back porch! Ignore my petticoat, darp. |
The house was an absolutely darling 1830s mansion filled with lovely, original artifacts.
Our host family was as new to all of this as we were, and being that they just moved in, gave us the use of several of their huge rooms to occupy. And of course, we made quite a mess of them.
| And this at the beginning of the week, too! |
It was usually between 80 and 90 degrees, though the building was air conditioned, so I got a good deal of use from my sheer. Even though it did get its fair amount of tears and stains, sigh.
| Carriage rides! |
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| Dem ankles! |
| Kate's dress... I can't even... /jaw drops/ |
| Sara being a cutie, per usual |
| Look at all of my neat little 'e's, hah! |
| Archangel et Jocelyn's peace sign |
| Church - the best place to goof off. |
| Graces in the yard |
| During the tea |
| I didn't have too much time to take pictures... :c |
| The lovely Ms. Flautt! |
| Yeah, Janet Jackson moment waiting to happen on my part. |
| Broooooos! |
As for the political part, it played a seemingly minor role. Mr. Orman's class on 'current events' was mostly factual with a few amusing gems like 'the North was settled by English puritans who didn't like to have any fun, the South was settled by brave nat'listic Scots-Irish Braveheart people.' But when the etiquette teacher read an excerpt from the Diary of Virginia Clay I nearly cracked a tooth grinding them so hard. It was an excerpt regarding James Hammond's plantation, which I HAVE read factual records of and it is NOT a little slaveocratic heaven like it was portrayed as. But in the part that she read Clay talks about how the happy little negro savages live in their happy little negro homes with their honky-tonk little negro culture, isn't it so cute! what would those savages do without us white people?
I mean, read any excerpt you want about life, art and culture in the 1860s. But read a section so drenched in racism and upholding that to be right, to demonstrate that slavery was a positive good(?!?) and I won't be able to take you seriously. At all.
But that was really the only problem that I had. I didn't much mind being walked around the ballroom by handsome, attentive men, if only because it was a change from the usual grunts back home. So there's that.
All in all, I'd do it again. I made a lot of new friends, and I feel like I'm in a little sisterhood of belles, and like Andrew Jackson I'm a huge sucker for secretive societies. All in all, a lovely time for a northerner down South!
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